Vitamin C serum contract manufacturing

A cosmetics plant formulates, stability tests, fills, and notifies at BPOM a vitamin C serum that is sold under your brand. The plant chooses the form of vitamin C, the pH, and the packaging that keeps it from oxidizing; you decide the positioning, the price, and the channel.

L-ascorbic acid oxidizes to dehydroascorbic acid when it meets oxygen, light, heat, or metal ions, and the color shift is the visible sign. Prevention is a package of measures: a low pH, chelating agents, antioxidant partners such as vitamin E and ferulic acid, little or no water, nitrogen flushing during filling, and an opaque or amber airless container.

L-ascorbic acid is the reference form, with the strongest antioxidant and brightening profile, but it needs a pH around 3.5 or below, stings on some skin, and has the shortest shelf life. Derivatives like 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate convert in the skin, tolerate a neutral pH, and stay clear far longer. Sensitive-skin and mass-market briefs usually go to a derivative.

It depends on the form. Pure L-ascorbic acid works and penetrates best in an acidic serum, roughly pH 3 to 3.5, which is also why it can tingle. Derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate prefer a near-neutral range and would degrade at a low pH. The pH is therefore fixed by the active first, and the thickener and preservative are chosen to survive it.

A vitamin C serum is defined by one active and sells on its antioxidant and glow story. A brightening serum is defined by its goal and may use niacinamide, alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid, or licorice, with or without a vitamin C derivative. Brands often sell both: vitamin C for the morning routine, brightening for dark spots at night.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) and ferulic acid stabilize L-ascorbic acid and extend its antioxidant effect. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin offset the drying feel of a low pH. Niacinamide is a common partner in derivative-based serums. Strong exfoliating acids or retinol in the same bottle are usually avoided, both for stability and for skin tolerance.

Yes. The old warning about the two cancelling each other came from unstable formulas at high heat. In a serum with a vitamin C derivative at a moderate pH the pair is stable and widely used. With pure L-ascorbic acid at pH 3 the combination is harder to formulate, so a brand that wants both usually chooses a derivative.

"Helps brighten the look of skin" and "helps even out skin tone" are supported by instrumental skin tone measurements on volunteers over several weeks. "Antioxidant" is supported by in vitro data on the formula. "Helps reduce the look of dark spots" needs a clinical study. Skin compatibility is shown by a patch test. Claims that promise to whiten or treat pigmentation disorders are not accepted.

An amber or opaque glass dropper bottle is the market standard and blocks light. An airless pump keeps air out as well, which matters most for L-ascorbic acid. Clear glass is avoided unless the serum uses a very stable derivative. Smaller fills, 15 to 30 ml, are common because the serum is meant to be used up within a few months.

Yes. Anhydrous serums suspend L-ascorbic acid or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in silicones or oils, which removes the water that drives oxidation and allows a higher strength with less stinging. The texture is silkier and heavier than a water serum, so it suits dry or normal skin better than oily skin.

A derivative-based serum at a comfortable pH, without fragrance or denatured alcohol, usually is. Pure L-ascorbic acid at a low pH can sting and is a harder sell to that user. Either way, the finished formula goes through a patch test before "suitable for sensitive skin" goes on the label.

Under BPOM Regulation No. 18 of 2024 the label carries the full ingredient list in INCI names, the batch number, the expiry or period after opening, and directions for use. A vitamin C serum usually adds a storage note (keep away from light and heat) and a line that a slight color change can occur. Claims follow No. 3 of 2022.

ODM develops a formula from your brief, including the choice of vitamin C form, strength, texture, and partners, with a stability study on that exact formula. OEM, or private label, starts from a vitamin C base we already produce and changes the texture, scent, or bottle, so the route to a first batch is shorter.

The form and strength of vitamin C you want to sell, the skin type and age of your user, whether the serum is for morning or evening use, the texture and color you prefer, your packaging idea, the claims you hope to print, and a rough quantity. From those we propose two or three directions and make samples.